Patrick Comiskey

April 2002

Aziza marks the migration of the Moroccan cuisine of brothers Khalid and Mourad Lahlou from the hinterlands of Marin County to San Francisco's Richmond District. Iron lanterns, brightly decorated arches and ornately carved Essouiran teakwood tables play up the food, an array of tagines, hariras, brochettes and couscous brightened by California produce and technique. Lamb Kadra is buzzed by a drizzle of balsamic; rabbit tagine given color and lift by Del Cabo yellow pear tomatoes. Wine director Mark Ellenbogen has fashioned a small but eclectic list to match, light on California in deference to more geographically congruous selections from Italy, Germany, Spain and France.