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cuisine
chef mourad lahlou, a native of marrakech, is a leader in modernizing moroccan cuisine and adapting it to a fine-dining setting in unprecedented ways. a self-taught chef with a natural aptitude for producing striking flavor combinations, lahlou creates beautifully plated dishes with the heart of homestyled food and the art of professionally prepared fare.
at aziza, organic and locally produced ingredients are prominently featured on a thirty-dish menu that presents lahlou's unique creations and modern versions of moroccan classics.
lahlou uses rustic and refined top-quality ingredients in healthy, light preparations that make the most of the sweet and savory flavors intrinsic to moroccan cuisine. signature dishes include chicken basteeya - saffron infused hoffman rance guinea hen - kumquat enriched niman rance lamb shank - couscous aziza.
desserts are prominently featured at aziza on a menu that changes daily. always included is a sampling of classics prepared moroccan style, as well as a number of lighter, fruit-based offerings, which tend to be less sweet than desserts at typical moroccan eateries.
lahlou describes his cuisine as "upscale contemporary moroccan with californian influences." through aziza, lahlou strives to revolutionize moroccan cuisine, unraveling the stereotypes surrounding it and demonstrating its true potential for fine dining.
chef mourad lahlou
mourad lahlou, chef and owner of aziza in san francisco, is one of the most dynamic and individual chefs in the bay area. earning both local and national recognition for his striking modern interpretations of traditional moroccan dishes, lahlou has fused the finest flavors of his native cuisine with the san francisco bay area's abundance of fresh, top-quality ingredients. despite having received no formal culinary training, lahlou is a master at creating artfully plated dishes that combine the heart of homestyled food with the bright, delicate flavors of professionally prepared fare. a leader in modernizing moroccan cuisine and adapting it to a fine-dining setting, lahlou is at the forefront of a growing community of chefs who have taken the foods of their homelands into another realm through the inspired use of california's bounty.
before opening aziza, lahlou was chef and owner at kasbah in san rafael, california, which he opened in 1997. kasbah steadily gained acclaim for lahlous's culinary creations, and in 1998 the san francisco chronicle named him a rising star chef. however, mourad came to feel that consumer attachment to the very traditional moroccan food and decor at kasbah was beginning to inhibit his growth as a chef. in order to create a more modern establishment and pursue his culinary goals, mourad conducted an extensive two-year search for a san francisco location and closed kasbah to open aziza in november 2001.
while many successful chefs long anticipate a career in the food arts, lahlou found himself drawn to the kitchen quite unexpectedly. having traveled to the united states from marrakech in 1985 to pursue a higher education in macroeconomics at san francisco state university, lahlou never anticipated running a restaurant. instead, he began cooking for a personal reason: to ease the loneliness he felt while studying so far from home. working largely from memories of watching his mother prepare traditional moroccan dishes, lahlou began cooking experimentally, at first for himself and later for small groups of his friends and professors. after receiving his master’s degree in economics (and a great deal of positive input on his cuisine), lahlou had intended to continue his work towards a ph.d. however, recognizing that his potential in the kitchen was not to be taken lightly, lahlou postponed his academic career in order to supervise the kitchen at kasbah. at the moment he is keenly focused on his present task at aziza: revolutionizing moroccan cuisine.
aziza's modern moroccan food is swiftly changing popular perception of the genre. while traditional moroccan dishes center on lamb, chicken and couscous and are commonly viewed by discerning gourmands as unduly heavy and overcooked, the cuisine at aziza is diverse, light and imbued with delicate flavor. for example, couscous at aziza is not the average plateful of hard, chewy granules that many restaurants serve; instead, lahlou rolls the grain repeatedly and soaks it in vegetable stock to make it fluffy and appetizing. creating healthy food is of great importance to lahlou and he employs a number of methods to meet this goal, including never deep-frying anything, steaming food for optimum nutrition and using locally produced and responsibly farmed organic vegetables and meats. known within an expanding circle of aficionados as "the other mediterranean," lahlou's contemporary moroccan cuisine moves well beyond the sphere of "ethnic," swiftly gaining a reputation for innovative fine dining on the bay area restaurant scene.
house style
aziza's entire design is driven by the notion of a modernized moroccan fantasy. a sexy, elegant atmosphere prevails throughout, as diners notice upon entering the restaurant's iridescent glass doors.
inside, massive candles illuminate the entrance and watermelon-colored mosaic glass candleholders light each of the hand-carved tables, adding warmth to the main dining room's intimate oversized banquettes. in addition, there are two other dining areas which double as private dining rooms, allowing the restaurant to comfortably seat up to 130. plastered walls wrap all three rooms in vibrant mediterranean colors such as tangerine, saffron and azure.
proof of moorish architecture is evident throughout with intricate woodwork and spanish tiles covering bits and pieces of each room, providing a dreamy, surreal take on high-maghreb modernism. brightly decorated arches make the restaurant's three rooms festive and appealing, with diners seated in chairs and intimate booths rather than on the floor, as in old-style moroccan restaurants.
an 8-seat narrow bar is tucked between the dining rooms, saturated in blue plaster and cone-shaped mosaic lamp fixtures, evoking a cavernous, sexy hideaway popular for its specialty themed cocktails.
at aziza, traditional cultural elements merge seamlessly with a refined atmosphere that transcends more stereotypical examples of the moroccan restaurant. a modern sensibility is clearly evident; as a result, the overall aesthetic does not fall prey to the usual bedouin-tent vibe so prevalent at many moroccan restaurants. in this manner aziza's design reflects its menu, promising a dining experience that is exceptional in and of itself, celebrating rather than dwelling on traditional details.
wine & house cocktails
wine director mark ellenbogen has created a wine list that turns its back on convention and focuses exclusively on the food. selections steer away from american cabernet sauvignons and chardonnays and towards more food-friendly wines - a gutsy gesture allowing diners to find bottles that perform on their own merits and perfectly match chef lahlou’s full-flavored dishes.
ellenbogen’s list spans eight nations, including more than a dozen rieslings and softer reds, such as pinot noir, syrah and cabernet franc. staff members are trained by ellenbogen and have extensive knowledge of the list, ensuring superb matches for all menu items and personal preferences.
for those less familiar with international wines, the list is helpfully organized by style and descriptive categories (ranging from "herbal - crisp/dry" and "floral" in the whites to "spicy" and "big - robust" in the reds). aziza's wine list has been carefully prepared with the flavors of the food (not a distributor's agenda) in mind, thereby allowing the cautious wine-lover assurance that every bottle aziza presents is an exciting discovery.
the innovative beverage options at aziza continue with a full bar, tea leaves menu and a specialty house cocktails featuring moroccan-inspired mixes such as fezz fiz, morocco mary, tarragon-cardamom caipirinha, meyer lemon basil drop, marrakech express & house specialty cilantro kaffir lime-ade. the cocktails are seasonal and based on what fruits and vegetables are at their height at the farmer's market.
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